Do You Struggle With Painting Tools and Techniques?

Painting Tools and Techniques

This is a 4 article series on painting tools and techniques. Here in part one I will examine protective gear and masking. Later in part 2 I’ll examine ladders and scaffolding and in part three I’ll talk about brushes and rollers. Finally, in the last article we’ll look at sprayers, caulk guns, wire brushes, braces and knee pads, and swivel hooks.

The painting industry has made tremendous strides within the last decade. Today there's an instrument for nearly every situation. Even I'm impressed by the ground breaking devices coming on the market, for example, dripless caulk guns, which have solved a messy problem.

Before you start your project, have a minute to check your equipment. You will most probably need to fill up on several items. Make an entire list of the things you need. Keep an eye out for tools that save time and labor. The more expensive equipment, such as sprayers and scaffolding, can be rented.

Getting Started With Protective Gear

Some people don't believe it's necessary to wear protection gear when they're painting. I assume they think it's wimpy. But I've performed around enough toxic substances to comprehend how dangerous they could be. Dust, painting mist, and vapors have an impact on the lungs rapidly, and skin pores are an available target for solvents and dust borne contaminants. Avoid being foolish... protect yourself.

Respirators Risk

A particle mask is preferable to almost nothing, but it generally does not form a good seal and it will not filter out all the dust. In the event that you do use a particle mask, get one with dual elastic bands. A damp handkerchief tied around a person’s face gives better security than particle masks that use light-weight rubber bands.

Double cartridge respirators will be the safest solution. They'll provide you with the protection you'll need for most vapors, mist, and dirt. Respirators come in three sizes. Make sure that yours fits. If it generally does not fit well, it won't work very well. Checking the fit of an respirator is like screening the seal of any diving mask. Breathe in then keep your hand over the side valves. The mask will work if it presses against the face and remains there while you hold your breath. Good respirators cost from $25 on up and usually include replacement filters. Double cartridge respirators have color coded filters for different contaminants; check that you have the right filter for the job. Be sure to read the instructions, and note that you should change the cartridges if respiration becomes hard or if you begin detecting vapors.

Protective Clothing Risk

Respirators do a good job of protecting your lungs, nevertheless, you need to protect the remainder of the body as well. Having been accredited in lead abatement, I understand that the body can only just eliminate a very small ratio of lead, even more than a 30 year course of time. Many painters make the mistake of thinking that a little exposure to dust particles or VOCs won't injure them, but it all adds up over time. I always dress for protection, keeping at least one good Tyvek painting suit on the work site. Tyvek breathes well, weighs little, and offers good protection. The extra layer is somewhat warm, but I would prefer to wear a paint suit than be covered with dust or overspray (during a hot day make sure you drink lots of water to avoid dehydration). In the event that you choose not to wear a painting suit, wear clothes that you will not mind turning into something resembling a painting palette.

I almost always wear leather gloves, even though I'm brushing. They keep my hands clean and my grip dry. I bring two pairs of gloves if I'm painting more than one color, to ensure that I don't contaminate the colors. Commercial strength rubber gloves are another must. I wear rubber gloves to stain, to wash out brushes, sprayers, and rollers; to open, mix, and strain paints; and handle toxins such as paint thinners.

Rounding out my paint anywhere clothing are safety eye glasses or goggles to keep chips, dust, and spray mist out of my eyes, and, if I'm spraying, a hood. In the event that you spray with out a hood, anticipate to spend a lot of time cleansing paint out of your hair.

Masking

Usually the area you're painting will have a finished floor or carpet and the proverbial ounce of prevention can save the day. Even if you are only painting one inside home window, masking the floor may be beneficial. Having an open can of paint makes me stressed if there isn't any drop cloth on the floor. I've discovered the hard way. Masking becomes even more crucial if you are staining, because stain spatters almost everywhere. A few simple items can help you save a whole lot of touch up, cleaning up, and attempting to get paint from the carpet before your spouse sees it. Before I finally gave up and admitted that my strategy wasn't perfectly right and dripless, I spent more time touching up than I could have. Touch up is a fact of painting life, but nowadays I do much less of it because I take the time to mask.

First, you need a drop cloth. Heavy fabric is usually best, but drop cloths need not be expensive, professional painter's cloths. You will often find pretty large drapes at thrift stores, for the price of one thin plastic material drop cloth. Search for drapes with vinyl fabric backing, for added waterproofing. I pull out the top stitching for an extra 3 inches of fabric.

The difficulty with plastic drop cloths is that they weigh next to nothing and billow everywhere. Plastic material works best when you can find 3 foot wide paper (like the kind used for flooring insulation) to lie together with the clear plastic. If I'm painting a large new home and I need to mask the complete floor, the plastic/paper masking system is inexpensive and works well.

A good masking system is crucial whether you're brushing, rolling, or spraying the paint. All you need is masking tape, paper for the outer edge of the floor and baseboard, and a thin layer of clear plastic for the windows and furniture. 3M makes a good masking system which includes special painter's tape and dispensers with pre-taped plastic. If you've ever before spent hours scraping tape adhesive off windows, you can appreciate advanced masking tapes. Commercial masking dispensers are available at professional painting shops and sometimes at rental shops. In case a commercial dispenser is hard to find, simply buy a roll of heavy paper and use your wrist to hold the masking tape roll.

Some tapes need more stickiness for fixing clear plastic to rougher textures like walls. Other tapes need to come off without leaving adhesive on windows and smooth areas. Always wait at least four hours before removing tape to avoid tearing the paint. But don't leave tape on for much longer than a day or it'll be hard to pull off.

Secrets To Masking Floors

In addition to masking off the main areas to be painted, it's also good prevention to mask main traffic areas and wherever you intend to store and mix the paint. Distribute all the required drop cloths, then clean the areas you will be taping with a vacuum, foxtail broom, or clean rag, to ensure a tight seal. As you mask, focus on obtaining a clean edge with the tape, and make sure the tape is solidly attached.

Tape and paper dispensers are perfect for masking off the outer edge of an area. They ensure a clean edge along the floor and minimize clean-up. I use shorter lengths of masking (1 ft. to 2 ft.) for corners and closets. On long, straight runs I favor going corner to corner with one long strip of tape, which reduces the amount of seams that should be taped. After the perimeter is in place, I take advantage of drop cloths for the remainder of the floor. For increased protection, I usually substantially overlap the masked perimeter with the drop cloth. On corners I also double the cloth over to the inside, for extra protection and stability.

Getting a tight seal with a drop cloth is critical if you are spraying a room, but protecting carpet or flooring with a sealed drop cloth is a good plan even if you are just brushing or rolling. A drop cloth will move if it is not taped where it lies, and you'll wrap up on your knees cleaning paint off the floor.

Masking Walls And Fixtures Strategies

Regardless of how you plan to use the paint, you'll need to mask permanent fixtures such as the ceiling lighting, fans, and door knobs. Even though you have excellent hand control, cutting in (edging) the fittings that aren't masked is time consuming, specifically for multiple coats of paint. To mask accessories, pull off enough newspaper and tape to wrap the fixture, being careful to keep the tape just on the bottom of the fixture (newspapers also makes a good masking material for fittings). When possible, loosen the fixture covers and wall mounts to paint under them; this ensures a smooth border.

The amount of masking that you must do depends upon what kind of house painting you'll be doing. Really the only time the walls have to be masked is when you plan to spray the ceiling and you will need to keep the walls dry, for instance, if the ceiling is getting a different color or finish. If the trim is clear coated or you want to paint only the walls and ceiling, it's wise to mask all over the trim, especially the windowsills.

Masking Windows Secrets

The only time I cover up windows is after I intend to spray. Taping house windows isn't quite effective. It takes too much time and paint still gets under the tape, and masking tape has a knack for really sticking to glass.

For interior or exterior windows, I take advantage of the same system as for masking walls. The sole difference is the fact that masking windows usually is faster than masking entire walls. Masking windows and walls is usually done with plastic, which lets light in to the room and is useful for covering large areas (paper is most beneficial for masking flooring surfaces and trim). To measure plastic, I roll it out across the windowpane, cut as straight of a line as it can be, and tape the perimeter of the window. Then it's simply a matter of sticking the plastic onto the exposed tape, working from the top down and being careful to keep it straight and level.

Masking paper also works well to safeguard windows, floor, and molding from paint spatters. To protect windows, apply masking paper over the top of the home window casing. The width of the paper will do to block the majority of the roller spatter. This same strategy protects the floor and molding. If you're assured about your brushing and rolling abilities use 1 ½ inch masking tape rather than masking paper.

Secrets To Masking For Spraying

Spraying requires that anything not being sprayed should be completely masked. Because spraying requires such intensive masking, wait to mask until you're ready to spray. Outside surface spraying might require extensive masking, with respect to the number of colors and whether there are adjoining structures such as fences and power lines. When masking for spray, remember to be detailed. Overspray is hard to regulate, especially under windy conditions. The greater you've prepared for overspray, the better. The time spent masking is much less than the time you'll have spent touching up afterward. A good seal with masking tape is critical because sprayed paint gets just about everywhere. Overspray is similar to the casual drip from a brush every so often... one is certain to get away from you, no matter how careful you are. But you can lessen overspray by double checking before you spray.

Sound Quality Painting

824 90th Dr SE suite B

Lake Stevens WA 98258

(425) 512-7400

Sound Quality Painting

Local Painters

Google Map

OUR EVERETT PAINTING LOCATION WEBSITE

OUR LYNNWOOD PAINTING LOCATION WEBSITE

OUR MARYSVILLE PAINTING LOCATION WEBSITE

OUR EDMONDS PAINTING LOCATION WEBSITE

OUR MUKITEO PAINTING LOCATION WEBSITE

OUR MONROE PAINTING LOCATION WEBSITE

MORE ABOUT PAINTS AND STAINS PART 2

FEATURES OF STAINS AND PAINTS - PART II

This is part 2 of a 2 part series of articles on paints and stains.

Exactly What You Are Looking For - Interior Paints Coatings for Each and Every Job

Did you ever wonder about the difference between interior and exterior paints? I once used exterior paint on an indoor ceiling, reasoning that it would last longer. It could last longer, but as I found out when I needed to touch up the ceiling only 2 years later, exterior paints will discolor on an inside surface. Exterior paints contain special additives made to withstand the outdoors. Interior paints have additives that help the paint dry to a durable, uniform finish.

A lot of the advances in painting technology have been with latex. Actually, latex has overtaken oil-based paint in several areas: durability and elasticity, as well as ease of application, clean-up, and disposal. Latexes have fewer VOCs than oil-based paints. Some, including the Pristine brand created by Benjamin Moore, are created with no VOCs in any way. Today's latexes are created with higher quality pigments and binders that provide them more body, so they go on thicker.

Latexes enjoy quite a bit of reputation for interior applications, specifically for walls and ceilings. Alkyds stay the professionals' choice for trim work because oil based paints are better to paint on detailed areas like molding and hardwood trim. However, that traditional approach is slowly changing as better latexes, including Pratt & Lambert's Accolade Interior Acrylic Semi Gloss, come on the market.

High Demand Exterior Paint Coatings

Moisture is an important consideration for exterior paint selection. Every day a family of four will generate several gallons of vaporized water inside a house.

Coupled with naturally occurring humidity, this may mean a lot of moisture moving through the wall surfaces and siding. Moisture is highest in the baths and kitchen. If these rooms aren't sufficiently ventilated, water will migrate through the wall space. Vapor barriers help to contain wetness, but vapor always seeks to leave. The structure of a residence, the type of vapor barrier they have, ventilation, and dampness all make selecting the right paint critical.

In wetter climates you need a paint that will let moisture pass through the wood, so water doesn't get trapped under the paint and cause blistering and peeling. Latexes are porous and let dampness pass through, unlike alkyd paints, which form a waterproof seal. Alkyds also don't flex with areas that expand and shrink, as wood does, especially in colder climates. Latex paints have more elasticity, allowing better adhesion.

I prefer using latex on most exterior areas, including wood siding, stucco, and cement. Latexes avoid fading better than most oil-based paints, and they'll cover either oil-based or latex primer (most oils have to go over an alkyd primer).

Latexes perform a great job of covering concrete. Despite its hardness, concrete is very porous, and oil-based paints don't always adhere well. For ideal durability, I would recommend latex enamel.

In general, if I know of a latex product that provides superior performance, I'll choose it over an oil-based product that must be cleaned with a thinner.

Latex only requires water. Thinners add yet another expenditure, are hard to get rid of, and usually end up spattered on my skin or clothes, regardless of how careful I am.

Amazing Way to Use Stains for Interior Work

You are able to spend a life time studying stains and sealers, but there's nothing mysterious about them. The bottom line in determining which stain to make use of is to familiarize yourself with the product lines available. Scan the label, along with any product information you can get, and talk to the staff at a professional paint shop.

Outside stains come in oil based, varnish, polyurethane, and water-borne solvents. Stains have less colorant than paint plus more solvents, providing them with higher wood penetration. Waterproofing is a priority with exterior stains. Most come with built-in sealants to add sturdiness and help maintain the wood. The color in stains can be pigments, dyes, or both. A semi-transparent stain has more dye for grain penetration. A solid stain has more pigment for surface covering. Pigment is a finely ground coloring that doesn't penetrate the grain as deeply as a dye. That's why a pigmented stain is usually accompanied by a sealer such as urethane or varnish.

Some high quality interior stains have dyes to penetrate and pigments to draw out the richness of the grain. Others contain only pigments, that are better to apply, combine, and touch up. Pigmented stains are lighter in color and draw out more of the wood grain. If you're looking for darker results, a dyed stain will provide what you want in one overcoat (be sure to use a conditioner on porous wood, such as pine and birch wood, to avoid splotching). Dyed stains are almost impossible to touch up. Every coating eventually will require touching up, so make certain to consider ease of maintenance in your choice of stains. You'll receive the best results by using better stains such as Minwax, Pratt & Lambert's Tonetic, Pittsburgh's Rez, or Wood-Kote.

If you wish to stay away from the watery nature of stains, get a gel stain, which had the majority of the water solvent removed. Gels are easy to use. They spread on, dry fast, and cover evenly. Because they're colored with pigment, gel stains don't penetrate that well. They're a good choice for porous woods that are hard to coat evenly with out a toner. Gel stains do a excellent job of showing off the grain on embossed metal or composite surfaces. I don't recommend working with them for hardwoods, which need a good dye stain to emphasize the depth and beauty of the grain.

No-Fuss Painting Using Sanding Sealers

Sanding sealers are interior primers that both penetrate and seal wood. You should use them under clear coats or on top of stains as sealers. Sanding sealers are different from a sealer like polyurethane, which is not made to prime. They're more like varnish, but diluted with solvents to allow better penetration for priming. The hardness of varnishes and lacquers inhibits them from soaking in to the wood pores. Sanding sealer can provide a better bond for clear coats.

Shellacs tend to be added to sanding sealers to fortify the resin and provide an instant drying agent. In addition they add an amber tone, so if you're utilizing a sanding sealer with shellac, make sure it won't influence the stain. Shellacs have a tendency to yellow aver time and contain toluene, that has a high VOC content. Shellacs are gradually giving ways to new sanding sealer formulas with lower VOCs and better performance.

Alkyd resin sanding sealers also have high VOCs, although significantly less than their shellac based cousins. Pittsburgh Paints makes a slow dry alkyd resin sanding sealer without shellac named Rez 77-1. This specific primer/sealer is good for both interiors and exteriors. Pratt & Lambert's Latex Sanding Sealer has suprisingly low VOCs, but is purely for interior wood and must not be used under a water borne polyurethane.

Oil-based sanding sealers can also be utilized to seal outside wood, especially decking, which is continually subjected to sun and water. For color consistency in areas like decks, it's best to completely coat, or back prime, the wood before it is in place, using the same sealer or stain. Olympic Water Guard, Messmer's UV Plus, Behr's, and most top quality deck stains are great water repellent sealers that also can be utilized for priming outdoor wood.

No-Fuss Wood and Stain Sealers for Interior Wood

Sealers, including varnishes, lacquers, urethanes, and shellacs, are put into the stain itself, applied as a top coat on top of a stain, or used as a clear coat on unstained wood trim. They could be used for just about any type of wood trim, including windows, doorways, and the casing around them. Although you can purchase stain/sealer combinations, they have a tendency to yellow, are difficult to maintain, and don't last as long as separately applied stain and sealers.

Varnishes contain natural oils such as Tung oil, a very hard, durable sealant that may be brushed on and dries slowly. Varnishes are easy to clean and keep maintaining with soap and water accompanied by a wiped on varnish, which usually keeps a wood surface looking ideal for years. Make sure there's no wax in your cleaner, because wax clogs wood pores. I prefer to work with Hope's Tung Oil varnish for a wipe-on maintenance layer. Lacquer is a fast dry sealer that more often than not needs to be sprayed, since it becomes tacky almost immediately.

Polyurethanes do almost anything shellac can do, but they're better to maintain. While shellacs act like paint, polyurethanes act more like a clear coat that permeates the wood instead of sitting on top of it. Polyurethanes brush on and dry quickly, with little stench and VOCs. They have more or less replaced shellacs as a clear sealer. Another reason urethanes have grown to be such popular sealers is that they don't really require sanding sealers.

The smells associated numerous paints and stains can become more than just offensive, they can be toxic. Solvent based varnishes, lacquers, and shellacs provide a super hard finish but contain high VOC levels. Water borne sealers, like the stains, match the performance of many solvent based sealers, with fewer VOCs. The VOC content of water based sealers such as Sherwin Williams Kern Aqua Lacquer average about 250 grams per liter, or 2 pounds per gallon, half the usual VOCs of oil-based lacquers. The ethers in water borne sealers aren't combustible, another advantage, but they still have enough VOCs to warrant a respirator.

Although they resist yellowing, water borne sealers such as acrylic latex polyurethanes do have a tendency to raise the grain. They'll also harden or "flash off" quickly at conditions higher than 60°F. The very best working temperature for most water borne acrylic latex polyurethanes is between 50°F and 60°F, which lets them flash a little more slowly. In cases like this, flashing-off simply means that the solvent evaporates and leaves the resins to complete the drying out process. A contractor I knew once used water based latex polyurethane sealer that flashed off so fast he could only put it on between 5 A.M. and 9 A.M. Anything later than that was too warm.

Minwax makes very good water borne polyurethane, as do Pittsburgh, Pratt & Lambert, Benjamin Moore, among others.

Amazing Stains and Sealers for Exteriors

Because of their better penetration and sealing power, most exterior stains sold today are oil-based. However, oil-based solid stains peel as they grow older, making them more difficult to maintain. A solid stain is like paint: It coats more than it penetrates. A latex solid stain peels less which is better to maintain as it ages. However, I prefer oil-based products for semi-transparent stains. Added oil solvents let them penetrate deeper. Some of the better stains on the market include Pittsburgh Solid Color Latex Stain, Messmer's U.V Plus, Moorwood Solid Color Exterior Stain, Sherwin Williams Woodscape stains, Pittsburgh Semi-transparent Exterior Stain, Rez Deck Stain by Pittsburgh, and the Sikkens Cetol system.

Deck stains usually have more solids than a typical outside stain, which will make them more durable. I recommend buying a high-end stain that is semi-transparent or what's called a trans-oxide. Until lately, the significant problem with exterior stains was their low UV resistance, but newer trans-oxides have finely ground metal mixed in for greater protection. A high end deck stain won't need a different sealer coating, although you can include one (such as Olympic Water Guard) if you think extra protection is required to battle moisture and sun exposure. Better deck stains retail for approximately $35 a gallon and cover 300 to 400 sq. ft.

Stay away from deck stains that contain silicone. Despite their attractive price, they are not a good deal. Advertisements for silicon stains and deck sealers often show beaded up water on the deck, and many people are fooled into thinking that this is actually the indication of an effective coating. However, silicon deteriorates quickly, usually in a matter of months, producing a discolored, waxy coat that is clearly a pain to eliminate. The deteriorated silicone also ceases repelling water.

"High build" coatings such as Sikkens and Messmers work remarkably well on exterior siding, however they are too soft to be utilized on your deck. Eliminating these coatings needs gallons of wood cleaner and a significant amount of work.

Water borne exterior stains, such as Sherwin Williams Woodscapes, combine the advantages of oil-based and latex coatings. They run and drip less than oil based stain, and dry faster, allowing for two coatings the same day. Water borne stains possess the resilience and flexibility of the latex stain, giving them stamina. They're a good choice for some applications. But bear in mind that cleaning up water based stains will take work. There are a couple of oil components in the solvent which have to be cleaned. First use soap and water, then alcohol. Ask your seller for specific cleaning guidelines for water borne stains, and read the label.

When In Doubt, Ask Questions

If you still have questions about which paint or stain to make use of, please ask people in the know. An experienced, educated salesperson can answer any questions you might have. Choose a paint store with staff having at least a decade of experience in the business. Inquire further what has worked best for your unique application and ask to see a spec sheet on the product in question.

The answers you get will depend on whom you ask. A paint store will try to sell you one their own products, in the end, that is why they're running a business. Painting contractors might not be impartial, either. They have to sell their experience. I get a lot of cell phone calls from people looking for help with their painting problems. Most painters, including myself, don't mind giving an hour of time, but if you want in depth answers, consider finding a contractor for a professional analysis. Rates vary, but I usually charge about $60 for a written and oral examination, with respect to the driving time included. A paid examination will tell you whether you should paint, stain, or re-side, as well as which finish might be best for your project. Each painting job has unique conditions that warrant specific answers.

Sound Quality Painting

824 90th Dr SE suite B

Lake Stevens WA 98258

(425) 512-7400

Sound Quality Painting

Exactly What You Are Looking For - Paint Coatings for Every Job

Take The Headache Out of Finding Paint Coatings for Each Job

The right kind of coating is essential. If you pick the wrong paint, it won't matter how much time and money you spend on your job. Too many flawlessly great paint jobs deteriorate too early because the incorrect primer and paint were used.

A dependable rule of thumb is to match the existing coating. If you're painting or staining on top of latex paint, recoat with latex. You may have all sorts of choices if the surface is uncoated, nevertheless, you still need to consider climate, maintenance, and toughness to find the best coating for the work.

No-Fuss Painting Using Primers

Primer is the unsung hero of any quality paint job. It decides how well the finish is protected and exactly how long the paint will last. Knowing when to use primers screws up painters almost as much as which primers to utilize. Basically, you will need to use a primer if you are coating a fresh or bare surface; changing colors, textures, or finishes; or making a surface more uniform. About the one time you don't need to prime is when you're recoating with the same paint and finish over a sound paint, for example, a flat latex paint over another flat latex paint.

To ensure compatibility, choose something that's part of a paint system. By paint system I am saying a primer and top coating produced by the same company. The labels of better paints always recommend specific primers and top coatings for various materials and conditions. Unless you want to deal with reading the fine print, ask to read the spec, or data sheet, on a particular primer. If a spec sheet isn't available, ask to see what's known as a “specifier’s guide,” although these guides probably have more information than you will ever need and you might need help translating a few of the terms and specifications.

Primers form a good base for the top coats by penetrating, sealing, and bonding to all types of bare surfaces. Without first priming a fresh or reconditioned surface, you'll find that the top coatings end up flaking off much earlier than you'll expect. Even though you can use additives such as Emulsabond, don't make the mistake of convinced that primers are optional, or can be made out of diluted paint.

Usually in a single coat most primers smooth out surfaces and places that have been scraped and sanded. Sometimes a surface will need a second coating of primer to ensure an even undercoat, but often one is enough. The home pictured below serves as an exemplory case of a project where two applications of primer were used. The bare wood siding was primed with an oil-based primer for extra adhesion. Then, a latex primer was applied over all the siding to provide it a level base for the top coats. Some climates almost demand another coating of primer. I've heard of one contractor in Florida who always double primes to guarantee that his jobs last. If you live near ocean water, I recommend that you take into account doing the same.

Primers highlight surface conditions by pointing out imperfections such as loose fibers in drywall and raised wood grain in trim. You might feel that a primer would even out a surface, but if you run your hand over a primed portion of trim it always feels harsh. That's because primer pushes out loose grain as it penetrates. After a dried primer has been lightly sanded, the smoothed surface is ready for layer. (Here's a tip: In the event that you tint your primer the color of the finish coat, it is possible to quicken the painting process by reducing the number of top layers needed. Tinting is mainly used for color changes, although it's also handy for surfaces like bare drywall.)

Primers For Interior Surfaces and Ceilings

I would recommend using latex primers wherever possible. Ask your paint dealer for advice on the best primer for interior trouble spots, such as the laundry room and bathroom, that require a good sealant and a water resistant primer. I've always used alkyd primers in wetter areas of the home, although there are excellent latex primers that seal similarly as well. I prime most drywall interiors with latex, especially the bed rooms, living room, and closets. I spray a latex primer on new construction because new properties have enough vapor barriers. Also, I can paint an oil-based top coat over latex primer.

Older houses require room-by-room decisions on what primer to utilize. If the residence does not have a vapor barrier or good ventilation, you will require a primer that seals the wall surfaces and keeps dampness from getting between the surface and the paint.

Latex stain blockers and sealers would be the answer to priming damp rooms in your residence. These quick drying primers help condition surfaces with water, smoke, and tannin spots, plus they can be recoated rapidly, sometimes within the hour. Pittsburgh's Seal Grip is a great latex stain blocker with few VOCs and all of the advantages of an oil-based stain blocker. Quick drying alkyd primers such as Kilz have pigmented shellac (with high VOCs) that also acts as a stain killer and sealer, but I don't recommend these for latex top coats, the shellac might show through the latex. If your latex has what's known as “good hold" or hiding properties, it'll maintain a consistant sheen over primer. You can assure compatibility by utilizing a high quality latex stain blocker such as Seal Grip.

With regards to walls, understand that plaster and drywall are different. Plaster is highly alkaline, in particular when it's new, and it can leach alkaline salts if it is not properly sealed. There are several primers you may use on plaster, depending on its condition and on the top coating and finish you've planned.

Drywall is a lot less alkaline than plaster. I prime drywall with a latex primer, unless the top coats will be an oil-based paint, in which case I'll use an alkyd primer. (I understand that we now have perfectly good latex primers for just about any type of top layer, but old patterns are hard to break.) When painting new drywall, I will sometimes add joint compound to the primer for a little texture. Blended with primer, joint compound also helps even out over any sanding marks or roughness.

Improved Primers For Interior Wood

When choosing primer, you should think about the type and condition of the surface, the type of paint (alkyd, latex, or epoxy) that is planned for the finish coats, and the kind of finish (flat, semi-gloss, or glossy).

Most often I prime interior trim with an exterior alkyd primer, which seals new wood and replaces lost moisture in older wood. There are also good water-based enamel primers for interior wood. Special conditions, such as the high moisture common in bathing rooms and kitchens, may call for a breathable latex primer if you cannot prime all over the wood. If you can completely prime the wood before it is attached in place, an alkyd primer will protect most of the trim from wetness. Assess conditions like these carefully and seek the advice of a specialist if your project has many different variables

Improved Exterior Primers

Even though I favor latex paint for the exterior, I still want to use alkyd primers on exterior wood. They simply do a better job of priming bare wood. I'll use an alkyd primer if I know that the home does not have any major internal vapor problems and that the wood is in good condition (which usually means that it is new), particularly if I have access to the siding and trim before it is attached to the building. It's always best to seal all over the wood (however, not the ends) to give each piece its own vapor barrier.

New redwood and cedar siding, as well as hardboard siding, needs special attention. Redwood and cedar will bleed tannins for a long period, even if the lumber has air-dried for months. Before priming, you should wash out the tannin with a mild detergent, and follow this with a good rinsing. Redwood and cedar are fairly porous, so you may need to hold back a day or two to let them dry. There are a good chance that more tannin resin will seep to the surface, so avoid priming with latex because the resin will bleed through. Instead, use two coats of an alkyd primer/sealer, and use high quality latex for the top layers. Any staining that occurs after that can usually be washed off with special hardwood cleaners.

Hardboard siding, new or already coated, presents a special challenge. Having less grain or anything resembling a porous surface makes hardboards such as Masonite difficult to adhere to. When the wood is new then pressure wash and rinse it. If water still beads up, wash it again to eliminate all the wax. Seal new hardboard with a specially designed hardboard primer/sealer, such as Pittsburgh Paints Permanizer Plus Wood Stabilizer. When mixed with a top coat, Emulsabond makes a great hardboard primer. These and other top quality sealers also work well on metal or vinyl siding, plywood veneers, textured wood, and other composite sidings.

No-Fuss Priming For Metals

Every steel should be cleaned of oil, grease, rust, or any other residue before you prime it, therefore the primer gets thorough contact with the surface. Most metal surfaces can be cleaned with a good thinner. Galvanized metals sometimes arrive from the factory with a stabilizer that may be tough to eliminate, and may need more than simply thinner. Check with your paint store if you would like to be certain a primer will continue to work on new galvanized steel surfaces.

You will discover primers for each type of metal. Ferrous metals, manufactured from iron and steel, should be primed with a rust inhibitor. Rust is almost impossible to totally remove if you don't sandblast it, and even then small pockets of rust can remain that will grow back under an unsealed surface or the incorrect primer. Rust inhibitors totally seal the outer layer from exposure to air. Some companies make reference to these primers as direct-to-rust or direct-to-metal (DTM) primers. Smaller projects like handrails can be primed with aerosol rust inhibitors such as Pratt & Lambert's Effecto Spray Enamel, which I've got success using.

Other metals, including copper, aluminum, bronze, and brass, should be coated with zinc-chromate primer. Some paint companies have a particular primer for new galvanized material. Older galvanized steel can be primed with a rust inhibitor like those mentioned previously.

Much like any finish, the more time the primer is able to flow and contact the surface, the better the adhesion. Quick setting primers don't flow much at all and stay right where they're applied, for better or for worse. A clean surface is particularly important when using a quick drying primer. Remember that some paint manufacturers recommend cleaning metals (and most other surfaces) with a thinner, while other companies suggest against using any sort of solvent cleaner. Scan the directions carefully.

An old technique that still is effective for cleaning new or old metals is washing the outer layer with a one-to-one mixture of vinegar and water. Vinegar can be an all-purpose, inexpensive cleaner that will also etch a steel material if mixed at that ratio. Etching metal works like sanding wood. It provides surface "teeth" for better adhesion. That same ratio is helpful for new rain gutters or uncoated aluminum siding. However, it should not be utilized to completely clean galvanized metals, because the vinegar will harm the galvanizing.

Improved Masonry Primers

Be it inside or out, masonry usually requires a primer or sealer that will resist water and alkalis. Alkalis are salts that leach out over time, leaving a chalky stain called efflorescence. The source of the efflorescence, usually moisture, must be resolved for alkali-resistant primers and sealers to help. New masonry must cure for 3 months before you prime and paint it, especially if it's highly alkaline, like stucco.

Sherwin Williams has a masonry primer called Loxon that withstands alkalinity up to pH 13; it could be coated on masonry that is seven days old. Stucco, which is actually tinted mortar and full of lime, is a great surface for Loxon, as is new plaster or poured concrete. Pittsburgh Paints also offers a primer for new, high-alkaline masonry, called Speedhide Alkali Resistant Primer; it's provided for oil-based paint. Additionally you can add this primer to cured masonry with a latex top layer, but it's important that you utilize latex only on low alkaline masonry. In these situations I've had good luck adding Emulsabond to the latex for extra adhesion. I would recommend it for most masonry applications.

Etching with muriatic acid used to be the only procedure to speed up the drying time of cement. You could still etch if you are so willing, although if I never see another box of muriatic acid, that would be just fine. (If it etches cement, imagine how well it etches pores and skin!) Etching takes a bucket, hose, brush, gloves, and complete eye and skin protection, don't forget a respirator, especially when you mix the acid with the water. Important: Add the acid to the water, not the other way around. If you add normal water to acid it'll splash and burn anything it contacts. And mix it in the proper ratio, usually one to three. Make sure you have brushes, sponges, towels, and least one 5 gallon bucket of clean water for emergencies, and another 5 gallon bucket for rinsing.

Reconditioning older, peeling concrete floors can be considered a chore. It's best to keep them well preserved and recoat them regularly, before they need to be completely redone. Concrete surfaces in really sad condition should be sandblasted, or you may use a fresh system called Peel-Away which makes prepping masonry somewhat easier (it's still no picnic). If the surface is in good condition, prep the floor and remove any trace of grease or wax with a good thinner.

For new cement floors, I would recommend a concrete stain manufactured by H&C or Okon; they come in water based and silicone acrylic. My choice is water based stain, since silicon is a wax that eventually will wash off. Cement stain penetrates and seals without needing scraping or sandblasting, and resists fading better than a top coating like latex.

Older, pre-painted concrete floors need to be repainted with a similar top coat, whether latex or alkyd. A latex top coating is best applied over a standard concrete sealer, but Emulsabond also works well. An oil-based top overcoat requires an oil-based enamel or epoxy concrete conditioner. I would add Penetrol to the primer for a longer lasting bond.

Sound Quality Painting

824 90th Dr SE suite B

Lake Stevens WA 98258

(425) 512-7400

Sound Quality Painting

Painter Lake Stevens

Painting Lake Stevens

Painting Company Lake Stevens

Painting Contractors Lake Stevens

Exterior Painters Lake Stevens

Interior Painters Lake Stevens

Home Painters Lake Stevens

House Painters Lake Stevens

Home Painting Lake Stevens

House Painting Lake Stevens

Painting Services Lake Stevens

Exterior House Painters Lake Stevens

Exterior Painting Lake Stevens

Interior Painting Lake Stevens

Do You Want a Painting Contractor?

Facts to Consider When Finding a Painting Contractor

Undertaking a paint job always calls for some forethought beyond color selection and decorative themes. Painting a room is simple enough. In fact, it's nearly the perfect do-it-yourself home improvement project. Nonetheless it is a job that places demands on your time and effort, budget, and skills. So before you haul out the brushes, paint cans, and ladders, consider a few pre-determined questions.

• How much preparation am I going to need to do and will I have enough time to do it?

• Am I up to the hard elements of the job, such as climbing ladders and moving furniture?

• Do I have the patience to learn a new skill, and can I accept that my initial progress might be slow and somewhat frustrating?

• Will I be able to live with a room left unfinished if I am called away or when I must go back to work after the weekend?

• Are there parts of the job I could do but merely don't enjoy? Are there parts of the work I could do myself and parts I wish to contract out?

If your answers to these questions cause you to opt to contract all or a portion of the job, then begin gathering bids and finding a contractor methodically.

First, talk to friends and others who live nearby and get their recommendations about contractors they used. Take a look at the work done for people you know so you can make sure the quality of the work meets your standards.

Then, contact at least three of the most notable contractors to go over the work you want done. Talk with each of them individually to look at the job and discuss the precise job details.

The Contractor Interview

• For each surface (including trim, stucco, aluminum siding, walls, and so forth), ask exactly what will be done to prepare it for priming including what type and make of primer. Then ask your contractor about the final coat, including the type and brand of the paint, how it'll be applied, its quality, and the amount of coats. Make certain the contractor use high quality paint. A quality acrylic latex paint might cost more initially, but its toughness will save money in the long term.

• For exterior work, ask what will be done to safeguard landscape plants. For interior work, find out how furniture will be protected and moved.

• Ask when the contractor can begin the job and how long it will require. It's also advisable to know what remedy will be employed if the work is not completed promptly.

• Discuss the warranty on the paint job, how long it is, whether it covers both labor and materials, what kind of failures are covered (peeling, cracking, fading), and what will be done to rectify such failures.

• Make sure the contractor is bonded and insured. Bonding will reimburse your costs if the contractor fails to get the work done. Insurance will cover any injuries suffered by the workers. Without such insurance, you might be liable for such injuries. Insurance could also cover damage done to your property.

• Ask each contractor for the names and contact information for previous customers. Call a few of the references and ask when you can look at the contractor's work.

• Get written estimates from at least 3 contractors. Be wary of any bids that are significantly higher or lower than others. Bids from reputable contractors are usually fairly near to the other person’s for the same work. The estimate should demonstrate material and labor costs and show payment terms.

Before you make your final choice, consider the contractor's demeanor. She or he should be responsive, punctual, and business like when returning phone calls or arriving for a scheduled appointment. The contractor should take time to answer your questions and describe details of the job.

Hire a Painting Contractor

Once you have selected a professional painter, that contractor should submit a formal written contract for the job (unless the bid or estimate was already in contractual form). The document should explain everything you have discussed with the contractor about your job. It should specify these exact things:

• the work to be achieved

• the materials to be utilized

• the starting and completion dates and remedies for failure to stay on schedule

• methods for resolving disputes

• procedures for making changes (change orders are alterations to the contract to which both parties must agree)

• evidence of insurance and bonding and licensing if required by local ordinance

Before you make final payment, inspect the work with the contractor, making notes about anything that needs correction (proper coverage, cleanup, etc). The contractor should correct the problems before you make final payment.

Sound Quality Painting

824 90th Dr SE suite B

Lake Stevens WA 98258

(425) 512-7400

Sound Quality Painting

Best Painters Lake Stevens

Google Map

Painter Lake Stevens

Painting Lake Stevens

Things to Consider When Hiring a Painting Contractor

Do You Want a Painting Contractor?

Undertaking a paint job always demands some forethought beyond color choices and decorative schemes. Painting an area is simple enough. In fact, it's nearly the perfect do-it-yourself home improvement project. Nonetheless it is a task that places demands on your time, finances, and skills. So before you haul out the brushes, paint cans, and ladders, ask yourself a few questions.

• How much preparation will I be required to do and will I have available time to do it?

• Am I up to the hard parts of the job, such as climbing ladders and moving furniture?

• Do I have the patience to learn a fresh skill, and can I accept that my initial progress might be slow and somewhat frustrating?

• Will I have the ability to live with a home left unfinished if I am called away or when I have to return to work after the weekend?

• Are there areas of the job I could do but simply don't enjoy? Are there parts of the job I could do myself and parts I wish to contract out?

If your answers to these questions make you opt to contract all or part of the work, then start gathering bids and searching for a contractor methodically.

First, talk with friends and neighbors and get their advice about contractors they used. Take a look at the quality of the work done for people you know so you can make sure the grade of the work meets your standards.

Then, contact at least three of the most notable contractors to go over the job you want done. Talk with all of them individually to understand the work and discuss the specific job details.

What You Need to Ask Your Painting Contractor

• For each surface (including trim, stucco, aluminum siding, walls, etc), ask exactly what will be done to get it ready for priming including which type and make of primer. Then ask your contractor about the final coat, like the type and brand of the paint, how it will be applied, its quality, and the amount of coats. Make sure the contractor will use high quality paint. An excellent acrylic latex paint might cost more initially, but its toughness will save money in the long run.

• For exterior work, ask what will be done to safeguard landscape plants. For interior work, find out how furniture will be protected and moved.

• Ask when the contractor can start the job and exactly how long it will require. It's also advisable to know what remedy will be employed if the job is not completed on time.

• Discuss the guarantee on the paint job, just how long it is, whether it covers both labor and materials, what kind of failures are covered (peeling, cracking, fading), and exactly what will be done to correct such failures.

• Make sure the contractor is bonded and insured. Bonding will reimburse your costs if the contractor does not get the work done. Insurance covers any injuries suffered by any of the workers. Without such insurance, you may be responsible for such injuries. Insurance may also cover damage done to your property.

• Ask each contractor for the names and contact information for several previous customers. Call some of the references and ask when you can look at the contractor's work.

• Get written estimates from at least 3 contractors. Be wary of any bids that are significantly higher or less than others. Bids from reputable contractors are usually fairly close to the other person’s for the same work. The estimate should demonstrate material and labor costs and show payment terms.

Before you make your final choice, consider the contractor's demeanor. She or he should be responsive, punctual, and business like when returning phone calls or arriving for an appointment. The contractor should remember to answer your questions and explain details of the work.

Picking a Painting Contractor

Once you've selected a professional painter, that contractor should submit a formal written contract for the job (unless the bid or estimate had already been in contractual form). The document should explain everything you've discussed with the contractor about your work. It should specify these exact things:

• the work to be done

• the materials to be used

• the starting and completion dates and remedies for failure to remain on schedule

• methods for resolving disputes

• procedures for making changes (change orders are alterations to the contract to which both parties must agree)

• evidence of insurance and bonding and licensing if required by local ordinance

Before you make final payment, inspect the job with the contractor, making notes about anything that needs correction (proper coverage, cleanup, etc). The contractor should correct the issues before you make final payment.

Sound Quality Painting

824 90th Dr SE suite B

Lake Stevens WA 98258

(425) 512-7400

Sound Quality Painting

Best Painters Lake Stevens

Google Map

Painter Lake Stevens

Painting Lake Stevens

 

Making an Accurate Estimate for Painting

 

Inspecting the Condition of the Existing Paint

 

When inspecting most paint jobs, I carry a scraper, a dusting brush, a clean rag, and sometimes a wire brush. I also use those tools to inspect the caulk, wood, trim, and substrata such as masonry.

 

An inspection of the exterior will turn up a wide range of conditions, from sound paint to paint that is cracked or peeling. Exposure to a wide range of temperature and moisture conditions will wear down any finish over time, no matter what the climate. The south side of the house might be weathered and peeling, while the north side only needs a good cleaning and touching up. Be sure to look for water damage from the roof or near the foundation where water might pool.

 

An interior inspection is the same: Search out weak areas where the paint has loosened or cracked, while also checking the paint that has held up well. Check around the windows for loosened putty, look for grease build-up in the kitchen and mildew in the baths, inspect the condition of the trim, and examine the walls and ceilings.

 

Even paint jobs a few years old may show signs of paint failure—areas of flaking, peeling, cracking, and blistering. Paint that’s covered with layers of grime actually may be in great shape, so first lightly rub an area to see what comes off. When a good paint or stain starts to go (at an average 8.5 years, although that figure fluctuates quite a bit), it gets a dull chalk on its surface. Chalking, or slight flaking of a semi-transparent stain, tells you that it’s time to recoat. If all the surfaces are chalking without more severe failure, you’re actually in luck. The whole process of recoating will take less work and paint.

 

Consider the Present Paint Condition

 

When launching painting projects, people often neglect to consider the condition of the existing finish. I recommend that you make a close inspection of the entire painting area, keeping the following questions in mind: How extensive will the project be? Is there any part of the existing finish that can serve as a match for the new finish? Is the existing finish in good enough shape to take another coat? Besides being full of surprises, this examination also will show you where to begin work.

 

When assessing the paint’s condition, I make a point of inspecting the surface underneath the paint. It’s not enough to notice where the paint is failing; any underlying problems must be addressed. A thorough examination of the existing conditions gives you a good starting point for the painting project and keeps re-dos to a minimum.

 

Planning a Job

 

There’s more to buying paint than picking a color you like. Every house painting project has unique features, from room size to neighborhood architecture that should be taken into account for your home to look its best.

 

Design considerations

 

Interiors and exteriors present different design issues. When choosing colors for the inside, you should consider the rooms themselves. Do they feature lots of woodwork, or hardly any trim at all? Do you want to make a small room look larger, or vice versa? Don’t forget to consider your furniture and carpeting or flooring, unless you’re starting from scratch and want the furnishings to match the walls. You may want a bright kitchen and a subdued dining room. You may want to give each room a distinctive color, or you might choose one color for the whole house. Your possibilities are endless, but give them some thought.

 

Paint sheens present another consideration. Sheens range from flat, the least reflective sheen, through eggshell, satin and semi-gloss, to glossy, the most reflective. I recommend a high-quality flat or eggshell paint for most rooms because it’s easy to maintain and touch up. A glossier finish is almost impossible to match, even with identical paint. The gloss fades over time, and not always evenly. A flat finish, on the other hand, has no sheen to fade.

 

Sheen can emphasize the different qualities of your rooms. Bedrooms usually look good with a “quieter” finish such as a flat or eggshell, whereas a dining room might benefit from a satin finish, which softly reflects light. Kitchens and bathrooms should be painted with a washable sheen such as a semi-gloss (flat latexes are hard to clean and tend to wash off). I’ve always found that a semi-gloss or satin finish sets trim off nicely. If you’d rather downplay the trim, use a flatter finish, such as eggshell. It’s a good idea to stay away from glossy ceilings. They attract too much attention and tend to diminish the size of a room.

 

When selecting exterior colors, you need to consider wide-ranging factors, including the style and roof of the house, surrounding colors, and the climate. Start with the roof: The new color scheme should match it. I can think of a few houses that have vibrant exterior paint, but never look quite right because the color doesn’t match the roof (until the roof is covered with snow).

 

Architectural styles also influence color choices. A Queen Anne-style house, with its many layers and patterns, will often have a shade and color for each architectural feature. In contrast, colonial styles usually have only one body color and one trim accent. But no law says you have to paint according to the style of house. You can choose to accentuate any favorite detail, whether it’s your front door or another focal point.

 

Roof, style, brick, and stone fall into the “constant” category. Constants are the parts of the house that don’t change often, and therefore are primary considerations in any color decisions. If you’re seeking the advice of a paint store, I recommend taking a few photos of your house along so a color professional can better evaluate your home’s constants.

 

Climate is a big consideration. You’ll notice that region influences many color trends, such as the sharper hues used to brighten up the muted light of the Northwest. Cool pastels are better suited to the harsher light and dry terrain of the Southwest.

 

If you live in a country setting, the landscape may help determine the basic tones for your exterior. If you live in a city, you may be influenced by your neighbors’ choices. Some neighborhood homes seem to be competitively individual in their design, while another neighborhood shares similar color schemes. What are the accent colors in your neighborhood?

 

Whatever criteria you use in your color decisions, beware of trends. Prevailing fashions may not suit you or the region where you live. The earth tones that swept the country in the late 1970s were designed to complement the countryside, but a lot of them ended up on urban houses, where they looked dull. Paint companies’ brochures often reflect the current trend. Remember that there are thousands of choices available, despite the emphasis companies place on certain hues or colors.

 

Narrowing your selection

 

Every paint store offers brochures, color chips, and color fans that feature combinations for every style and taste. Many stores have refined the selection process with programmable computers.

 

I’ve found that paint chips alone aren’t enough to help me make a good choice. The manufacturers’ brochures state as much, in small print at the bottom of the page, where they note that “the color of these chips may not perfectly match the paint you order.” That is because most brochures use color dyes, whereas paints are colored with pigments. About 80% of the people I work with say the color they get is darker than what they expected. For this reason, I recommend going a shade lighter.

 

Next, try out a quart of the color you like. Far too many homeowners rush out and buy gallons of what turns out to be the wrong paint, then blame the store. There are lots of reasons that paint can appear off-color, but color mixing is seldom one of them, especially if you go to a reputable store. That’s why, starting with a small amount is so important. The first color you pick isn’t likely to be the one you will keep, and you don’t want to be stuck with custom-mixed gallons you can’t use. It’s not uncommon to go through 8 to 12 quarts in the search for the perfect shade. That may sound like a lot, but considering how expensive color consultants are, spending $50 to $100 for the perfect paint is a good buy. You should be able to do more than just “live” with the color you pick: You should be happy with it.

 

Whether you’re matching an existing color or refining your selection, the process won’t be complete until you’ve verified your choice with a “brush-out.” 5 brush-outs let you see how the color you’ve selected actually looks before you invest in the total amount for the job. To do a brush-out, simply make one brush stroke from the mixed quart of paint on a detail or siding (or on a sample of that material). After the paint has dried (one hour for latex, two for oil-based paint), view it in different light and at different times of the day to see how you like it.

 

Brush-outs also are a good way to match touch-up paint. Touch-ups can be difficult because paints and stains age differently—some fade while others darken. Take a sample of the work to be matched to the paint store. Do yourself and the store a favor and take a big sample, not just a chip of the existing paint. Sometimes I’ll take a window, a cabinet door, or a piece of siding. That way, the newly mixed paint can be applied directly to the existing paint, blow-dried, and held up to the light for a match test.

 

Estimating the Project Size

 

If you’re planning on doing the painting yourself, your most important consideration probably will be the quantity of paint and material that you will need. The bulk of any estimate starts with measuring the total area of the paint project. To do this, you only need a tape measure, paper, and a pencil.

 

As you gain experience, you may notice other variables, such as the age and condition of the surfaces, figuring into the estimate. The more difficult estimates involve older structures that teem with “hidden agendas,” or minor repairs that turn into major undertakings. Blisters on exterior siding may be caused by water evaporation from un-insulated walls. A small plaster crack may reveal large separations between lath and plaster that need to be fixed with screws and putty. The more you know about the condition of the surface and paint, the fewer surprises you’ll have. Older houses can fool even seasoned pros, who estimate such mystery jobs carefully and often opt for a time and material contract.

 

Here are some easy formulas for estimating rooms, doors, fences, and other features.

 

Interior Estimates

 

To determine the area of an interior job, begin with the walls. Multiply the height by the length of the sides, and add the totals. Add the ceiling area to that total. Next, figure the area of the windows and doors: If the total is 100 sq. ft. or less, don’t bother deducting it from the wall area. If it’s higher than 100 sq. ft., subtract that number.

 

The “height-times-width” formula also works for trim, doors, and windows, if you take certain variables into account. If the door has four to six panels, double its area. If it’s a French door, the area should be tripled. Handrails and balustrades are estimated by multiplying the height by the length, then multiplying by four to get the total surface.

 

Contractors have a fast method of calculating wall and ceiling area that is almost as accurate as the process I’ve just described. Simply take the square footage and multiply it by 3.5 in rooms with an 8-ft. ceiling. For rooms with a 10-ft. ceiling, multiply the area by 3.75. If you’re painting a new house, you can simplify your estimating by asking the drywall contractors for the total area.

 

Exterior Estimates

 

The methods for estimating interior surface area can be used for some exterior portions of the house, including siding, doors, windows, and handrails. However, certain architectural features have their own formulas:

For smooth blinds, use the standard “length-times-width” formula. Double the area when computing slatted blinds.

 

Plain eaves, add 50% to the total area. For eaves with rafters running through, triple the area.

 

Plain cornices also get the standard measurement. Triple the area if they’re decorative or fancy.

 

For latticework, measure the area of the lattices on one side and multiply by four to get the total. Plain fences require a doubling of the area. Picket fences would be multiplied by four.

 

To make all your estimates as close as possible, then discuss them with an expert at a professional painting store. Hard and fast estimates are difficult to come by, even for professionals. If in doubt, round your figures up—it’s better to have too much paint than not enough. Extra paint will come in handy for eventual repairs and touch ups. Properly sealed and stored, paint has a long shelf life. Any lumps or rust that is due to oxidation can be strained out.

 

Estimating the Project Time

 

Figuring the time for a painting job is more complicated than estimating area. Contractors know that time estimates are an art that takes a while to perfect; underbidding the time factor is a major banana peel for non-professionals. A host of variables affect a time estimate, especially for older homes: the amount of set-up and preparation, structural repairs, the number of colors and coats, the types of doors and windows, and the type of surface. As the saying goes, it’s all in the details. New houses and additions have fewer variables because the surfaces are new. This makes estimating the time easier.

 

Windows and doors can take up to 65% of the time spent painting an interior or exterior. Although I may need only a few days to mask and spray the siding or walls, I always know that the trim— notably the windows—will take another week or two. The following estimates are for one side of doors and windows, including everything from preparation to the finish coat. Bear in mind that these are professional estimates and should be used as a reference point, especially if you’re new to painting. All you really need is a general idea of the time the project will take. Your focus should be quality, not speed.

 

Windows involve the most detail, so let’s begin with them. Repainting a well-maintained window that opens (either double-hung or operating) will take about 90 minutes. Older opening windows that need extensive preparation will take twice as long. Because fixed windows are one piece they only take half as long as windows that open will take. Vinyl window cladding is a low-maintenance exterior innovation. Most homes built before clad windows became popular in the 1970s have wood sashes that require much more upkeep.

 

A hollow-core, flat door should take from 90 minutes to two hours—about the same as a fixed window. A solid door with four to six panels will take the same amount of time as a double-hung or operating window, approximately three hours. Remember that doors also include the jambs and casing (the trim around the door). Many front doors have windows, which also add to the time.

Estimating the time it will take to paint any surface depends on how the paint will be applied. Although windows are usually brushed, doors and trim can be brushed, rolled, or sprayed, so the time required to paint them can vary.

The height of the house is an important exterior consideration. Due to the increased climbing and set-up time, a two- or three-story house takes longer to paint than a single-story house. A multistoried house also raises the question of whether to use ladder jacks or scaffolding, which take time to move and set up.

Time estimates are another area where a reputable paint dealer can help.

 

Estimating Costs.

 

Your area estimate tells you approximately how much paint and materials, such as caulk and sand-paper, you will need for the job. Every can of paint has a recommended spreading rate based on a surface that is “smooth, primed, and “non-porous.” Of course, not every surface fits that description. Although top rated paints generally have a recommended rate of 400 to 500 sq. ft. per gallon, I’ve found that most get closer to 533 sq. ft. per gallon. When estimating, it’s a good idea to subtract 10% of the recommended coverage. When spraying porous surfaces like stucco, I subtract another 15%—50 sq. ft. off my spread rate of 350 sq. ft. per gallon. Again, your trusty paint dealer can help you estimate porous surfaces.

 

Here’s a cost estimate for a typical interior room (I haven’t included an exterior estimate because the variables are simply too numerous)

A room that is 12 ft. wide, 16 ft. long, and 8 ft. high, or 630 sq. ft., with three windows and two doors, will take 4 gallons of paint. So, at $35 per gallon for a high-quality product, you can plan on spending $140 for paint. Other basic materials, such as caulk, masking tape and paper, spackle, thinner, and sandpaper, should bring the material costs to $160.

 

A professional would take about 16 hours to paint this room. The rates for labor range from $20 to $40 an hour, which would total $320 to $640—far more than the cost of paint and materials. According to the Decorating Contractors of America, only 8.3% of the contractor’s fee goes toward paint. The rest is overhead and labor.

 

Even painting one room your self would save you enough to buy top-of-the-line brushes, rollers, and other painting tools, and still come out ahead. I know plenty of people who buy low-end equipment to “get through” their one painting project for the year then throw everything away when the job is finished. That doesn’t make much sense, since they’ll eventually have to go out and buy the tools all over again. I’ve also found that low-end equipment gives low-end results and is depressing to work with. Professional-quality tools will give you professional results for years to come.

 

When you budget your paint job, don’t skimp on the top coatings, whatever you do. Many homeowners mistakenly think that a middle-of-the-road paint bought at a discount chain is good enough. However, cheaper paints contain no more than 15 ingredients, compared to anywhere from 40 to 50 for top-of-the-line paints. More (and better) ingredients allow high-end paint to go on smooth and thick and dry evenly. Their coverage also is superior: One $30 gallon of paint covers as much area as two $15 gallons, to within a few cents. This means fewer coatings and less work. Lasting power alone makes quality paints a better deal. They will last, on average, two years longer on exteriors, and two to four years longer on interiors.

Sound Quality Painting
824 90th Dr SE suite B
Lake Stevens, WA 98258
phone: 425-512-7400

      https://soundqualitypainting.com

 

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1FJzFOIbQPoJukYC7BYq11mlJlj3JwGGKu1sN0HXzrWM/edit#gid=1697889216

from Sound Quality Painting https://soundqualitypainting0.blogspot.com/2020/09/making-accurate-estimate-for-painting.html
via IFTTT

from Sound Quality Painting https://soundqualitypainting0.wordpress.com/2020/09/15/making-an-accurate-estimate-for-painting/
via IFTTT

10 Interior House Painting Tips

Painter іn Lake Stevens: 10 Interior House Painting Tips.

 “Use thеѕе tips tо make уоur painting projects gо faster аnd smoother.”

Hеrе аrе 10 tips tо make уоur Lake Stevens paintingprojects gо smoother аnd faster whіlе giving уоu a professional-looking finish thаt you’ll bе proud оf. You’ll аlѕо fіnd ingenious tips thаt саn cut уоur cleanup tіmе іn half аnd extend thе life оf уоur paint brushes.

Painting Techniques Tip 1: Tо avoid lap marks roll thе full height оf thе wall аnd kеер a wet edge.

Roll thе full height оf thе wall…

Lap marks аrе thоѕе ugly stripes caused bу uneven layers оf paint buildup. Thеу occur whеn уоu roll оvеr paint that’s аlrеаdу partly dry. (In warm, dry conditions, latex paint саn begin tо stiffen іn lеѕѕ thаn a minute!) Thе key tо avoiding lap marks  whеn doing DIY wall painting іѕ tо maintain a “wet edge, ” ѕо еасh stroke оf уоur roller overlaps thе previous stroke bеfоrе thе paint саn begin tо dry.

Tо maintain a wet edge, start near a corner аnd run thе roller uр аnd dоwn thе full height оf thе wall, moving оvеr slightly wіth еасh stroke. Mоvе backward whеrе necessary tо еvеn оut thісk spots оr runs. Don’t let thе roller bесоmе nearly dry; reload іt оftеn ѕо thаt it’s аlwауѕ аt lеаѕt half loaded. Kеер thе open end оf thе roller frame facing thе area that’s аlrеаdу painted. Thаt puts lеѕѕ pressure оn thе open ѕіdе оf thе roller, ѕо you’re lеѕѕ likely tо leave paint ridges whеn doing DIY wall painting.

Tip 2: Mix ѕеvеrаl cans оf paint іn a large bucket fоr a consistent color thrоughоut thе room.

Mix paint іn a large bucket…

Paint color mау vary slightly frоm оnе саn tо thе nеxt. If уоu hаvе tо open a new саn іn thе middle оf a wall, thе difference mау bе noticeable. Mixing thе paints tоgеthеr eliminates thе problem. It’s best tо estimate thе аmоunt оf paint you’ll need аnd mix іt іn a 5-gallon bucket (a process called “boxing”).

Whеn coverage іѕ difficult tо estimate, add mоrе rаthеr thаn lеѕѕ whеn doing DIY wall painting. Yоu саn аlwауѕ pour thе leftover bасk іntо cans. Fоr large jobs, uѕе thе bucket аnd a roller screen rаthеr thаn a roller tray. It’s muсh faster tо load уоur roller wіth thе screen thаn tо uѕе a roller pan. Simply dunk thе roller іntо thе paint bucket аnd thеn roll іt аlоng thе screen untіl іt stops dripping.

Tip 3: Let thе paint dry thеn cut thе tape loose fоr a perfect edge.

Cut tape whеn paint іѕ dry…

Onсе paint іѕ dry, уоu can’t just pull thе tape оff thе trim. Paint forms a film bеtwееn thе wall аnd thе tape, аnd removing thе tape tears pieces оf dried paint оff thе wall. Sо bеfоrе pulling оff thе tape, cut іt loose.

Wait fоr thе paint tо completely dry fоr аt lеаѕt 24 hours. Thеn uѕе a sharp utility knife оr box cutter knife tо slice thrоugh thе film. Start іn аn inconspicuous area tо make sure thе paint іѕ hard еnоugh tо slice cleanly. If уоu cut thе paint whіlе it’s ѕtіll gummy, you’ll make a mess. Aѕ уоu cut thе paint, pull uр thе tape аt a 45-degree angle.

Tip 4: Paint thе trim fіrѕt, thеn thе ceiling аnd walls.

Paint thе trim fіrѕt…

Pros usually follow a certain order whеn painting a room. Thеу paint thе trim fіrѕt, thеn thе ceiling, thеn thе walls. That’s bесаuѕе it’s easier (and faster) tо tape оff thе trim thаn tо tape оff thе walls. And уоu certainly don’t want tо tape thеm bоth оff!

Whеn painting thе trim, уоu don’t hаvе tо bе neat. Just concentrate оn getting a smooth finish оn thе wood. Don’t worry іf thе trim paint gets оntо thе walls. You’ll cover іt later whеn painting thе walls. Onсе thе trim іѕ completely painted аnd dry (at lеаѕt 24 hours), tape іt оff (using аn “easy release” painter’s tape), thеn paint thе ceiling, thеn thе walls.

Tip 5: Prime аnd texture wall patches tо avoid a blotchy finish.

Roll оn primer оvеr patches…

Freshly painted walls оftеn look blotchy. Thе color іѕ uniform, but thе sheen isn’t consistent. Thіѕ usually occurs оvеr thе holes аnd cracks уоu patched wіth a filler оr drywall compound. Thе porous fillers absorb thе paint, dulling thе surface (a problem called “flashing”). Whеn light hits thеѕе dull spots, thеу stick оut like a sore thumb. Thе smooth patch аlѕо stands оut іn contrast tо thе slightly bumpy texture оf thе rеѕt оf thе wall. A quick coat оf primer іѕ аll іt takes tо eliminate flashing аnd texture differences.

Primer seals thе patch ѕо paint won’t sink іn аnd look dull. Tо match thе texture prime wіth a roller whіlе feathering оut thе edges. Choose a nap thickness tо match thе surrounding wall texture (a 3/8-in. nap roller fоr smooth walls; 1/2-in. fоr textured).

Tip 6: Clean dirty surfaces ѕо thе paint саn fоrm a strong bond.

Clean dirty areas bеfоrе painting…

If уоu paint оvеr dirty, oily surfaces, thе paint wіll easily chip оr peel оff. Sо bеfоrе painting, clean grimy areas wіth a de-glosser оr heavy-duty cleaner intended fоr pre-painting cleaning. Thеу work wеll tо clean painted, varnished оr enameled surfaces tо improve thе adhesion оf thе new paint. They’re ideal fоr cleaning greasy оr oily areas like kitchen аnd bathroom walls аnd removing hаnd marks аrоund light switches аnd doorknobs.

Wipe оn thе cleaner іn a circular motion using a lint-free cloth оr abrasive pad. Start аt thе bоttоm аnd work uр. Aftеr thе surface іѕ clean, fіll іn аnу nicks аnd holes аnd thеn sand thе filled areas smooth bеfоrе painting. Thе cleaners аrе available аt paint stores аnd home centers. Bе sure tо wear rubber gloves аnd eye protection.

Tip 7: Roll paint аlоng thе edges fоr consistent texture.

Roll оut paint near trim…

Corners аnd areas nеxt tо trim thаt аrе painted оnlу wіth a brush hаvе a noticeably different texture thаn thе surrounding paint. Tо ensure thе finished texture wіll bе consistent іn thеѕе areas, brush оn thе paint аnd immediately roll іt оut bеfоrе thе paint dries.

Uѕе a 3-in. roller wіth a nap that’s thе ѕаmе thickness аѕ thе roller used fоr thе rеѕt оf thе wall. Roll thе paint аѕ close аѕ уоu саn tо thе edges wіthоut bumping thе opposite wall оr slopping paint оntо thе trim. Finish brushing оn thе paint аnd rolling іt оut іn оnе area bеfоrе moving оn tо thе nеxt section.

Tip 8: Uѕе cotton drop cloths rаthеr thаn plastic.

Protect floor wіth cotton drop cloth…

Spills аnd spatters happen, regardless оf hоw careful уоu аrе. It’s a lot easier tо prepare fоr thеm thаn tо wipe thеm оut оf уоur carpeting оr оff уоur wood floor later. All іt takes іѕ canvas drop cloths іn уоur work area (a 4-ft. x 15-ft. cloth costs $15). Thе thісk canvas stays іn place, ѕо уоu don’t need tо tape іt, аnd уоu саn uѕе іt tо cover аnу surface. Plastic drop cloths аrе slippery tо walk оn оr set a ladder оn аnd don’t stay іn place. Evеn worse, paint spills оn plastic stay wet, аnd thеу саn end uр оn уоur shoes аnd gеt tracked thrоugh thе house. Canvas іѕ slippery оn hard floors, ѕо rosin paper ($10 fоr 400 sq. ft. аt home centers) іѕ better оvеr vinyl, tile аnd hard- wood. Tape thе sheets tоgеthеr аnd tо thе floor tо provide a nonslip surface.

But еvеn wіth canvas оr rosin-paper drop cloths, large spills ѕtіll need tо gеt wiped uр right away оr they’ll seep thrоugh. Clean spills wіth paper towels оr cloth rags. Likewise, іf уоu splatter paint оn аnу оthеr surface, wipe іt uр immediately.

Tip 9: Feather оut paint whеrе уоu can’t kеер a wet edge.

Feather paint wіth a dry roller іn large areas…

Yоu can’t cover large areas like ceilings, extra-tall walls оr stairwells іn single, continuous strokes, ѕо thе best wау tо minimize lap marks оn thеѕе areas іѕ tо feather оut thе paint аlоng thе edges thаt уоu can’t kеер wet. Thе thinner, feathered coat оf paint wіll avoid thе buildup thаt causes thе lap mark.

Tо paint a large section wіthоut leaving lap marks, roll thе nearly dry roller іn different directions аlоng thе dry edge, feathering оut thе paint аѕ уоu gо. Aftеr completing thе entire length оf thе wall оr ceiling mоvе tо thе nеxt section аnd paint оvеr thе feathered edges. Fоr thе second coat, apply thе paint іn thе opposite direction. Thіѕ crisscrossing paint application sharply reduces (if nоt eliminates) lap marks.

Tip 10: Sand trim bеtwееn coats fоr аn ultra-smooth finish.

Sand trim fоr a smooth finish…

Onе coat оf paint usually won’t hide thе underlying color аnd sheen оn trim. And іf уоu don’t sand thе surface smooth bеtwееn coats, thе finish mау hаvе a grainy texture. Fоr a smooth finish, sand thе trim bеfоrе applying еасh coat оf paint.

Sand thе trim wіth a fine-grit sanding sponge. Sponges gеt іntо crevices whеrе sandpaper can’t gо аnd let уоu apply еvеn pressure. Thеn apply thе fіrѕt coat оf paint аnd let іt dry аt lеаѕt 24 hours. Lightly sand іt аgаіn fоr a completely smooth surface аnd apply thе second coat. Aftеr еасh sanding, vacuum thе trim аnd wipe іt dоwn wіth a tack cloth tо remove thе dust.

Sound Quality Painting
824 90th Dr SE suite B
Lake Stevens, WA 98258
Phone: 425-512-7400
jason@soundqualitypainting.com

To find us click below:

from Sound Quality Painting https://soundqualitypainting0.blogspot.com/2020/05/painter-lake-stevens-10-interior.html
via IFTTT

from Sound Quality Painting https://soundqualitypainting0.wordpress.com/2020/05/18/10-interior-house-painting-tips/
via IFTTT